Page 57 - The Hunt - Fall 2019
P. 57

                 day actually starts the evening before, after the last dish passes over the counter and a few guests linger over dessert and coffee. It’s then that he takes out his book and writes down ideas while they’re still fresh.
The next day, when he’s not making pasta, he mulls over his notes. “We might make one or two changes in the menu,” Andiario says. “Today, I’m going to make a capon ragu sauce, and we’ll see how long that lasts.”
Later, Andiario shows me his cellar, where he’s doing some pickling and other methods of preserving. Even so,
he doesn’t seem as obsessed as some other seasonal chefs with finding 57 different ways to make root-vegetable dishes in the colder months.
“Some people still come in holding the [Craig LaBan] review,” says van Schaijik. “But we really don’t consider ourselves trailblazers.”
If anything, one of the things that’s so endearing about Andiario is that its owners don’t want to try too hard. Although they are deadly serious about serving fine food, they prefer a calmer approach with a longer, more measured view of success.
“Every night that we can walk out and feel good, that’s really nice,” Andiario says.
Andiaro, 106 W. Gay St., West Chester, Pa., (484) 887-0919,
Rhode Island fluke crudo with fermented aji dulce peppers and crispy Jerusalem aritchokes. (Opposite page) Fresh shallots. 55

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