Page 56 - The Hunt - Fall 2019
P. 56

                 When it comes to his restaurant, Andiario knows the type of chef he is and what he wants his place to be. But he admits it’s not always easy to put this concept into words. He’s a culinary composer who knows the score, but the lyrics are harder to come by.
Andiario floats the label “adaptive Italian” to describe
his oeuvre. And while that might describe the geography
of his cooking style, he insists on ingredients coming from local farmers, as opposed to something more “Italian like” in origin. He still misses the farming part of his Arizona experience, noting that he and van Schaijik spent a lot of time roaming around local farms before opening their doors in West Chester.
fall 2019
Andiario sources locally made flours for his pasta, and his larder is full of local cheeses and vegetables. He also has foragers at work as emissaries in local forests and meadows. For meats, he prefers to get animals whole, then do his own butchering. “People we source things from always ask for a lot of feedback into what we want and what we’re thinking,” he says.
Van Schaijik is also busy searching out superior Pennsylvania wines for her list—something other upscale local restaurants are finally doing.
His last tortelloni shaped and stored away, Andiario is asked what a typical day is like. He displays a small notebook with neatly written entries, explaining that his

   54   55   56   57   58