Page 51 - The Hunt - Fall 2019
P. 51

                 Bac&k Home Cooking
Chef Anthony Andiario returns to his Pennsylvania roots.
BY ROGER MORRIS | PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEVE LEGATO
Anthony Andiario and Maria van Schaijik wanted the sort of restaurant where people strolling down West Chester, Pa.’s Gay Street late in the day could drop in for dinner. And while that sounds like a good idea
in theory, you’ll want to make a reservation at the couple’s eponymous eatery, which has become one of the region’s hottest dining spots.
At the moment, it’s all quiet at Andiario—dark except for the kitchen area, where the chef is busy hand-making the pasta for which the restaurant is known. He produces it daily with an almost ritualistic efficiency, while van Schaijik deals with the occasional vendor or the curious person who wanders inside. The open kitchen isn’t large, but it is wide. From its vantage point, you can look out across the tables and chairs and into the street beyond.
“I’m preparing two kinds of dough,” says Andiario, a friendly but focused man in his early 40s. “I’m making egg pasta for tortelloni and water pasta for fusilli.”
In cool weather, the tortelloni might show up on the menu with pheasant, butter and sage. The fusilli is more likley to be accompanied by cauliflower and a ragu of Point Judith calamari.
Andiario rolls out the pasta, forms it into balls, then rolls it out again. That done, he pulls the dough in strips through an electric roller to uniformly flatten it before quickly attacking with a rolling cutter. Finally, with nimble fingers, he forms the tortelloni into origami-like shapes before storing them until the evening.
w
9
ww
ww
w.
.
T
Th
he
eH
H
u
un
nt
tM
M
a
ag
g
a
a
z
zi
in
ne
e.
.c
c
o
om m4
4
9


























































   49   50   51   52   53